Friendly Encounters




Anchorage, Thetis Island

To continue our progress northward, we departed Montague Harbour in the late afternoon and made our way to Thetis Island for a night’s anchorage.   

Gilbert Displaying His Carvings

A narrow cut divides Thetis from Kuper Island, home of the Penelakut First Nation.  Thetis Island and Kuper Island (now known as Penelakut Island) were originally joined by mud flats until 1905 when a passage was dredged to allow boat traffic to pass through to the west side.  Thetis Island was named after the British surveying frigate, HMS Thetis stationed on the Pacific between 1851 and 1853, Captained by Augustus Leopold Kuper.  

Penelakut Wood Carving

Kuper Island was renamed Penelakut in 2010 in honour of the Penelakut First Nation people.  The village at Penelakut had fifteen or more large houses on the beach, located almost at sea level – the word Penelakut means ‘log buried on the beach.’  We anchored in Clam Bay on the east side of Thetis Island and had just finished dinner when two natives approached us in a skiff.  They pulled up to our swim step and showed us their wood carvings available for purchase.  We chose a small Raven painted light blue and black which matched nicely with our boat’s interior.  Gilbert, the artist, signed and dated his work on the back indicating its place of origin, “Penelakut Island” – we now had a nice memento.  

Approaching Dodd Narrows

In the morning we departed for Nanaimo on Vancouver Island, passing through Dodd Narrows.  Dodd Narrows is located between Gabriola Island and Vancouver Island with Mudge Island squeezed in the middle creating a narrow bottle neck where the current can run as much as 9 knots at Flood and/or Ebb as predicted in Tables for tides and currents.  

Dodd Narrows

The Narrows are easily transited, however, during slack or near slack water.  We went through just as slack was ending and at the beginning of an Ebb Tide without any trouble.  We arrived in Nanaimo at 10:20 in the morning during the busy 4^th of July weekend and still managed to find space at the marina thanks to a timely cancellation by another boater.  Our first matter of business was to get some Canadian currency and make a trip to the grocery store. 

Frank Relating a Canoe Story

After our chores, we settled in and received an unexpected visitor from a member of the  Coast Salish.  Seems that word of our arrival spread quickly and followed us to Nanaimo.  Frank, from the Salish Reserve, was at the docks and stopped by our boat with his collection of wood carvings; he would be happy to make a custom piece for our boat, he said.  We commissioned work from him for a canoe paddle to fit above our galley.  We discussed the dimensions, colour, style, and price range.  

Raven Paddle, Coast Salish

Frank came back the next evening as promised with his completed artwork, a paddle with a Raven motif carved out of cedar, very nice and just the right size!  About that same time, we received a text message from our friends Bob and Shino who happened to be in Nanaimo with their boat.  Wow, what a coincidence!  They came over to join us and met Frank just before he left, then the four of us headed out to dinner. 

 


Irish Pub, Nanaimo

We went to an Irish Pub located in “old town.”  The Pub is housed in the old train station built in 1920 by the Canadian Pacific Railway for the Esquimalt and Nanaimo (E&N) run.  The station has been refurbished and recently opened as a pub venue.  We enjoyed a delicious Moroccan meat and vegetable pot pie with a specialty IPA on tap, combined with some hardy laughs and good conversation with our friends.  A great way to end a day full of surprises. 

                     

 

 

Down Memory Lane



Montague Harbour and Marina

After spending an afternoon at Saturna Island, we motored to Montague on Galiano Island and anchored for the evening. 

Marina Store and Cafe

Montague Harbour is capable of holding a huge number of boats and also offers a small marina, a public wharf, and a marine park for campers.  The Harbour also holds special memories for us dating back to the 1980’s.  Montague Harbour was one of several stops while boating in the Gulf Islands with our family.  

Northern portion of Montague Harbour

We hiked what was then primitive trails through the forest and along the beaches.  We had taken our shovels to collect butter clams, oysters, and mussels.  

Down Memory Lane

To our surprise, we also discovered dozens of crabs hiding under the seaweed and simply scooped them up – it still holds the record for our largest seafood feast.  I also remember when the boys and I climbed through the doors and windows of an old abandoned barge in the Harbour, exploring its interior. 

White Shell Beach

The barge has since been removed for safety reasons but these great family memories live on.  During our current trip to Montague, we hiked the improved marine park trails, white shell beaches, and northern rocky shoreline admiring the Madronas where the boys once swung from their branches.  In more recent years, we have spent time here enjoying some of the unique local cafes.  

Beautiful Madronas

This is the first summer that the Bakery Boat is not present in the harbor; after nearly 15 years, the couple selling baked goods from their vessel have retired. 

Northern Rock-bed Shoreline

Additionally the lady that ran the La Berengerie café from her home in the forest has also retired, but the Hummingbird Pub, a long-time favorite, is still in operation.  Tommy T is the new driver of the Hummingbird Bus who picks up guests from the marina and takes them on a wild, hilarious ride to and from this popular pub on the Island.

Gem of the Gulf Islands



Got d' Fever at Breezy Bay

From Stuart Island we headed across Boundary Passage into Canadian waters and cleared Customs at Bedwell Harbour on South Pender Island.  No fresh fruit, fresh vegetables or uncooked potatoes in our possession and only a minimal amount of wine to declare so our clearance by phone went quickly.  Java had her required shots and I had ditched my potted plant in preparation for a possible boat inspection.  

Gusty Winds at Breezy Bay

With a clean slate, we headed across Plumper Sound to one of our favorite stops, the Winery on Saturna Island accessed by a trail from Breezy Bay.  The Saturna Winery provides a guest dock for small boats and two or three buoys for larger boats, or you can drop an anchor in the Bay near the shore.  Two sailboats had dropped their anchor and we chose one of the orange mooring buoys.  We had arrived around noon, intending to have lunch at the Winery offered in the afternoons; however, Breezy Bay was living up to its name.  We had wind gusts up to 25 knots and Got d’ Fever was pulling the buoy sideways out of the water!  

Vineyards at Saturna Winery

We didn’t feel comfortable leaving the boat alone, so we took turns hiking up to the Winery; the scenery here is so special, we couldn’t pass it up.  The trail leads past an old homestead and through the trees bordered by high granite cliffs that open up to a valley of vineyards overlooking Plumper Sound.  

Bistro Lunch at Saturna Winery

Java and I enjoyed our one mile round trip hike and Leonard purchased a nice bottle of wine during his turn to the Winery.  While enjoying our lunch back at the boat, we noticed a dinghy racing toward one of the sailboats and realized that their anchor had slipped!  The sailboat had dragged a fair distance from its original position, heading for a rocky shore but was caught in time.  

Vineyards and Granite Cliffs

The other neighboring sailboat, like us, had left someone on board during these breezy conditions.  Windy or not, Saturna is still one of our favorite places to visit in the Gulf Islands.  

Saturn

Thomson Park, located upland from the dock and buoys, was first homesteaded in 1872 and later purchased by Charles Payne and Warburton Pike in 1884, who built a house on the present park site; the house was unfortunately destroyed by fire in 1930. 

Dr. Andrew Rutherford then purchased the land in 1935 and later divided it between two of his children, Lorraine Campbell and Bob Thomson.  The community acquired Bob’s portion in the 1990’s and the Campbell’s continue to run their farm while the undeveloped waterfront and cliffs became part of the Gulf Islands National Park Reserve. 

Swing at Thomson Park

From 1950-1989, the park site was host to the Annual Lamb Barbecue. 

Old Farm Well

The community still puts on the July 1^st, Canada Day Annual BBQ, now held at nearby Winter Cove.  Hundreds of boats anchor in this large cove for the annual event and guests are shuttled back and forth by volunteers in row boats.  We attended this fun event in 2011 and highly recommend it.  Lamb is staked out around an open fire pit and kept moist with a special glaze or sauce.  The meat turns out tasty and tender, served with salads, corn, and beans.  In good Canadian fashion, lots of family games are provided and of course a beer garden for the adults.  Aside from this annual event and activities at the Winery, Saturna Island retains its peaceful atmosphere and holds a unique place among the Gulf Islands.

The Scenic Route




Spieden Island

We departed our anchorage at Deer Harbor on July 1^st and headed for Reid Harbor on Stuart Island with plans to cross the border the following morning.  We motored along the shores of Spieden Island looking for any signs of deer, goats, and sheep.  In the 1970’s this beautiful island was used for game hunting – animals were imported from other countries and a hotel, airport, and small hanger were built to accommodate visitors.  Hunting has long since ceased but the island is still under private ownership, now owned by founder and major shareholder of Oakley Inc. (sport accessories).  

Camp Nor'wester, Johns Island

After passing Spieden we could see Johns Island in the distance with its large white tipis along the western shore, an unmistakable landmark for boaters.  

Views of Mt. Baker, Johns Island

This 135-acre property is the old Nell Robinson Ranch that now serves as Camp Nor’wester, a summer camp for kids offering a variety of activities. 


Homesteader's Cabin, Stuart Island

Soon Stuart Island came into view and we spotted an old homesteader's cabin on the south shore as we rounded the point heading into Reid Harbor.  

Smaller Islands near Reid Harbor

We have visited Stuart Island on numerous occasions, another favorite stop with nice trails through the State Park. 

Reid Harbor, Stuart Island

Having visited the little red school house on previous occasions and the historic Turn Point Lighthouse and museum, we decided to relax and enjoy our scenic anchorage watching the boats come and go.  

Relaxing over Dinner

We set up the lounge chairs for dinner on the bow of our boat and enjoyed the views of little cemetery island while soaking in the warm sun.

Change Up

 

Approaching Deer Harbor on Orcas Island

Deer Harbor Marina

I picked up some groceries after my return to Anacortes, this time being careful not to swing the heavy bag over my shoulder and sprain my hand again.  It seemed like a familiar routine; would we go to Blind Bay and anchor for the night and then on to Friday Harbor?  I now understand how Bill Murray felt in the movie “Ground Hog Day” where he kept repeating the same day over and over again until he got it right.  

Deer Harbor Marina

We decided to “change it up” and headed for Deer Harbor to break the cycle.  The weather was warm and the breeze refreshing, a perfect day with calm seas.  We anchored in beautiful Deer Harbor and took the dinghy into the marina for an evening walk with Java.  She saw several wild bunny rabbits and other dogs out for their evening stroll.  We couldn’t pass up our visit to Deer Harbor without having dinner at the historic Deer Harbor Inn, located about a half-mile walk north of the marina.  

Short Cut to Deer Harbor Inn

We hiked up the winding country road and took the posted short-cut through the trees.  Located on a hill, the Inn has lovely views of the harbor from the large deck, it’s always a great place to relax.  The Inn and Restaurant is the site of Deer Harbor’s first commercial orchard where 100 year old apple, pear, and plum trees can still be found.  

Deer Harbor Inn and Restaurant

View from Deer Harbor Inn

Around 1910, the Nortons acquired the orchard property and began boarding school teachers from Seattle which led to establishing the Island’s first resort.  The Nortons became known for their chicken buffet dinners and homemade desserts.  Thankfully, the current owners carry on the tradition of excellent home cooked

A Seaplane lands at Deer Harbor

meals including delicious soups and homemade breads with seafood and meat dishes served family style.



Scenic Anchorage at Deer Harbor

The Lead Line



Anchorage outside Cap Sante Marina, Anacortes

For a change of scenery, Leonard decided to anchor just outside Cap Sante Marina while awaiting my return from Portland.  It turned out to be a scenic anchorage with great views of Mt. Baker, plus a convenient dinghy dock for going ashore.  

Got d' Fever at Anacortes Anchorage

Minus tides for that entire week, however, were predicted for the area.  On his second morning while at anchor, an extreme low tide would occur.  The charted depth for the area is 8 to 9 feet at zero tide, and the tidal prediction had called for a minus tide of about 2 feet.  Our boat has a draft of just under 5 feet, making for a rather close encounter in this particular situation, leaving only 1 or 2 feet of water under the keel.  Leonard monitored the “depth sounder” but these electronic readings can have errors or anomalies due to the different layers of mud and seaweed under the water creating less than precise readings.  

Looking towards Cap Sante Marina

The location of the transducer (the device that transmits the electronic readings) has to be taken into consideration as well.  The transducer is not normally located at the bottom of the keel but somewhere part way up the hull, accounting for another margin of error.  Then there is the tidal prediction which is taken from a nearby “tidal station” which isn’t necessarily where the boat is located - another possible margin of error that could result in more or less water under the boat than anticipated. 

Looking towards Mt. Baker

In order to figure out exactly how much water he had under the boat at any given time, Leonard created a “lead line” – a common practice used by early mariners.  

Leonard's Lead Line

To create his lead line, Leonard used a downrigger fishing weight and attached a thin rope or line marked off in 3 foot intervals with painters tape.   His lead line confirmed that the charted depth was accurate and that the tidal predictions were correct.  He was confident that there would be nearly 2 feet of water under the keel before the tide would change again to more comfortable levels within a half-hour.  The use of this old technology had paid off. 

Backyard Boating



Popeye the Harbor Seal

I have to say that some of the best boating to be found is right here in our own backyard in the State of Washington.  The San Juan Islands located in relatively protected waters have such a nice variety of things to see and do – small towns or villages, beautiful farms, historic sites, interesting museums, nice marinas, and secluded anchorages. 

Friday Harbor Airport

After visiting Roche, we continued around the island and made a stop at Friday Harbor for some groceries and water.  While in town we decided to hike one of the local trails near the Airport.  We discovered that the airport trail connects up with the “American Trail” that leads to American Camp located on the south end of San Juan Island.  

Many Scenic Farms in the San Juan Islands

To our surprise, we learned that the American Trail extends the length of the island and runs between English Camp and American Camp.  In some places along this trail, however, hikers need to walk on the road due to several portions of private property.  Of course we always have to say hello to Popeye, the harbor seal and long-time resident of 25 years.  Popeye can usually be found in front of the dockside fish stand, slapping a fin requesting treats at lunch and dinner.  We stayed a couple nights in Friday Harbor to wait out a strong south wind before heading to Eastsound on Orcas Island. 

Anchorage, Village of Eastsound

Although there is a small guest dock at the village of Eastsound, it is often occupied so larger boats usually anchor in the cove.  Since the anchorage is exposed to winds from the south that build due to the long narrow stretch of water called by the same name, East Sound, it is important to wait for favorable conditions.  The village at the end of this sound is one of four main towns in the San Juan Islands and is equally charming with cute shops and cafes.  

Homestead Cabins, Museum at Eastsound

Each town among the islands has its own interesting history, offered in the form of one or more museums.  At Eastsound it’s always fun to see the group of log cabins built in the late 1800’s which now serve as the town’s museum, showcasing the island's local history and artifacts.  These six original cabins were moved from various sites around the island to their present location at Eastsound.  Also of interest is the stately mansion on the east bank about mid-way along East Sound.  Completed in 1909, the estate was constructed by ship builder and Seattle Mayor, Robert Moran.  

Robert Moran's Mansion - Rosario Resort

The mansion along with the adjacent marina are part of Rosario Resort, another historic treasure in the San Juan Islands.  But alas, it was time for us to leave these beautiful islands and head back to Anacortes and then to Portland for what I hope will finish up the last of our business.