Cape Mudge Village, Quadra Island |
After our stay at Gorge
Harbour on Cortes Island, we crossed the Strait of Georgia in calm seas. We rounded Cape Mudge on the south tip of
Quadra Island, motoring through the usual maze of fishing boats off the Cape,
and headed for Campbell River on Vancouver Island.
The following day we took our bicycles on the
small car ferry that runs between Campbell River and Quathiaski Cove on Quadra
Island. Once on the Island, we rode southward to the Native village of Cape Mudge, home of the We Wai Kai
Nation to visit the Nuyumbalees Cultural Centre & Museum. The museum first opened in 1979 as the Kwagiulth Museum then closed in 2001 for renovations, reopening in May 2007 as the Nuyumbalees Cultural Centre.
The Nuyumbalees Society was founded in 1975
to complete the negotiations for the return of their Potlatch ceremonial items
and regalia, which the Government of Canada had confiscated in 1921 during the
time of the Anti-Potlatch Law. Like the
museum in Alert Bay on Cormorant Island, the museum at Cape Mudge houses and
preserves repatriated potlatch artifacts.
The purpose of a potlatch was to acknowledge a marriage, mourn a death,
or transfer rights or crests etc. through the acceptance of gifts celebrated through
song, dance, and storytelling. The
potlatch host provided entertainment and gave his guests gifts according to
their recognized position in society and were fed a large feast. The excellent museum at the Nuyumbalees
Cultural Centre in Cape Mudge provides close up views of exquisitely carved
masks and head dresses as well as other pieces like rattles, whistles, and
cedar bark ceremonial clothing.
Whistles
represented a variety of animal sounds each with a different tone constructed
of two pieces of wood lashed together. Before
lashing the pieces together, the inside was shaped for each unique sound.
Rattles were used to announce the beginning
of a chant or song and masks represented different animals or beings. The museum also had a nice collection of
historic photos of various Native villages and provided explanations about the series of
dances, their purpose, and how the regalia was used in each ceremony. As in all cultures, there seems to be a
common thread in mankind’s imagination.
Native American and First Nations story telling seem to be a combination
of operas, fairy tales, and religious beliefs.
For example, the Bakas is said to be half man, half animal with a hair
covered body and lives in the forest.
Another dance (with canoe costume pieces) tells of the first ancestor
Weqe, who was told by the Great Spirit to put himself and his family into four
canoes before the great flood came. Weqe
and his family survived the deluge but the two canoes at the end broke
away. One drifted northward, one drifted
southward, becoming the ancestors of different bands. The museum at Cape Mudge also had a nice
collection of coppers, like those at Alert Bay.
Coppers were used as an economic tool, similar in function to the way
bonds are used today. When an investor
bought a copper he would buy it with mountain goat fur, the mode of currency on
the coast prior to European contact. If
he liquidated his assets a year later by reselling his copper, he would receive
the same amount of goat furs for his copper plus profit from the sale. The Nuyumbalees Cultural Centre is definitely
worth a visit, unfortunately, not many people seem to know about this museum
due to the lack of promotional efforts and lack of photos since photography is
not allowed inside the museum.
Ferry Landing at Quathiaski Cove, Quadra Island |
Quathiaski Cove, Quadra Island |
Canoe at Cape Mudge Village |
Nuyumbalees Cultural Centre & Museum |
Whistle (photo from internet) |
Rattle (photo from internet) |
Coppers at U'mista Centre, Alert Bay |
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